Monday, August 13, 2012

Cake and St. Stephans

I had my very first slice of Viennese cake today.  I have been hearing all about how wonderful it is from every person who had been to Vienna before.  I though that they must have been exaggerating because, yes cake is delicious but really how can cake be special enough that it is the second or third thing people tell you to experience in Vienna?  Admittedly, I went into the experience somewhat doubtfully but I was proven wrong very quickly.  The cakes here are fantastic! They are the perfect amount of sweet and savory as well as the perfect balance between rich and light.  These are the balances that I think American cakes have yet to achieve but that Viennese cakes seem to excel at.

After my first trial of Viennese cake, which is an experience I believe will lead to a very devoted love of Austrian desserts, I was able to see the Stephansdom for the first time.  Dr. O gave us a fantastic tour of the church, but the first thing she said that really struck me was actually a question: "What was your first impression of this cathedral?"  This is no doubt a very simple question.  However, I also think that it is a extremely useful question to use when first approaching a building such as St. Stephans.  As soon as she said this I had to think back about what exactly my first impression had been and it can be summed up in one word: Amazing.  I realize that this is a pretty bland word to try and use for such a complicated building, but it is the truth.  The architecture amazed me.  The paintings amazed me.  The history really amazed me.  And yet, what is odd is that I did not feel overwhelmed by the church despite all of its details and gothic styling.  Instead, for some reason, despite the ugly stain glass windows and the grandiose scale of the building, I felt welcome.  This sense of ease only increased by every story that Dr. O told us about the different parts of the church.  Getting to learn about how the church became a cathedral, why Frederick III was buried there, how Master Pilgrim felt unwelcome, and why bell fell from the tower, while actually standing inside the building was a perfect way to experience history.

I think that my favorite stories as well as my favorite aesthetic aspects of the cathedral were those involving Master Pilgrim.  His pulpit is truly extraordinary.  The level of detail and obvious skill that went into making the giant stone structure was truly astonishing.  Also, I really appreciated the way that every part of the pulpit was thought out.  Everything from the toads being blocked by a terrier to the three and four pronged wheels that looked like they were ascending and descending the pulpit were well planned and full of religious symbolism.  Even though I am not exactly religious, I do still think that it is a shame that we often do not build or design today with the same thought, care, and symbolism that so characterizes art and architecture of the past.  I also really enjoyed the story of the organ case resting on the back of Master Pilgrim.  Since he was not Viennese, apparently many locals made fun of him, especially when he was creating the organ case which them claimed would never stay up on the wall.  Apparently, at least according to the story, Master Pilgrim then said he would hold the case on his back.  Since the organ case is still standing after five centuries, I think that the Master got the last laugh.




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